Египет: лето в феврале. Часть 7

Posted on February 23rd, 2008 in Египет by admin

Каир, пирамиды и Сфинкс

Пирамиды
До Каира путь неблизкий — около 600 километров. Но лихие арабские водители умудряются преодолеть его всего за 6 часов. Поэтому, отправившись в путь ночью, утром мы уже проезжаем по туннелю под Суэцким каналом, чтобы попасть из Азии в Африку! Дело в том, что Шарм-эль-Шейх находится в Азии, на Синайском полуострове, а Каир — это уже Африка! А это значит, что мы побывали на двух континентах.

Каир

Наш гид по Каиру — Катя. Ее отец — египтянин, а мать — русская. Ее внешность, скорее, арабская, но она великолепно говорит по-русски! Катя — прекрасный гид, рассказывает очень интересно.

Первая остановка — Каирский музей. Большинство экспонатов — саркофаги, надгробные статуи, мумии, сокровища из гробниц. Все это связано, в основном, с погребальными обрядами древних египтян. Поражает то, что они делали мумии не только людей, но и животных. Чего стоит только огромная мумия крокодила!

Каирский музей

Удивительная деталь — у древних египтян совсем не было собак. То есть абсолютно! Их дома охраняли… гуси. Оказывается, они шипят и бросаются на незнакомого человека. Как известно, «гуси спасли Рим», так что это неудивительно. Поэтому в домах египтяне размещали на стенах изображения гусей. А вот кошка в Древнем Египте считалась священным животным. Особенно черная, без единого белого волоска.

Каир — очень перенаселенный город: 17 млн. населения на территории, равной половине территории Москвы. Да еще 2 млн. приезжает каждый день на работу. Город расположен очень неудачно — в низине, между гор. В результате над ним постоянно висит смог, который не рассеивается.

Каир, Нил

Выражение «Каир — город контрастов» — уже давно избитый штамп. Тем не менее, это правда. Наряду с величественными зданиями, храмами, минаретами — полуразрушенные постройки в ужасном состоянии. Великолепие и крайняя бедность действительно составляют резкий контраст, поражающий любого европейца.

Гид обращает наше внимание на район домов, которые тесно лепятся один к другому и кажутся недостроенными. Это один из самых бедных и неблагополучных районов. Причем оказывается, что это не плановое строительство, а самозахват. Люди живут здесь без воды, электричества, газа, канализации. Промежутков между домами практически нет — это сплошная масса убогих построек. Ахмед, студент Каирского университета, рассказывал нам, что они создали группу для помощи беднякам, собирают для них деньги, одежду.

Пирамиды

Внезапно туристы ахают от удивления — в окнах автобуса вдалеке показались треугольные верхушки пирамид! Это зрелище действительно кажется невероятным — едешь посреди обычного города, и вдруг твоим глазам открывается нечто, не вписывающееся в привычную картину мира. Пирамиды поражают воображение. Они кажутся необыкновенными пришельцами, которые неведомо как попали сюда из другого измерения или с другой планеты. Настолько они не похожи на все остальное, сделанное руками человека… И такое впечатление создается во многом благодаря огромным размерам пирамид.

Пирамиды

Пирамиды стоят на возвышении — на плато Гиза, поэтому, когда стоишь возле них, Каир остается внизу, и виден, как на ладони. Желтые силуэты огромных пирамид четко выделяются на фоне голубого неба. Это чудо света возникает в песках пустыни, как фантастический мираж, как видение, в которое невозможно поверить…

Сначала мы попадаем на самую высокую площадку, с которой видны все пирамиды. Здесь бойкие торговцы втридорога продают сувениры наивным туристам. Кому же не захочется купить что-то на память у Великих пирамид?

30.jpg

Гид Мухаммед помогает нам договариваться с торговцами, чтобы сбить цену. Один торговец упирается, и ни за что не хочет уступить скарабея подешевле. Но Мухаммед тоже упрям и продолжает настаивать на своем. Торговец снова отказывается. Тогда Мухаммед выдает эмоциональную тираду, как говорится, «с использованием местных идиоматических выражений». Видимо, выражения оказались крепкими, потому что торговец сразу замолкает и провожает Мухаммеда очень возмущенным взглядом.

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Подъезжаем к пирамидам поближе. Туристы залезают на нижние каменные блоки и кажутся просто муравьями на фоне каменной громады. Вокруг пирамид — множество бедуинов на верблюдах, которые очень настойчиво уговаривают прокатиться на корабле пустыни. Но гиды обычно предупреждают туристов, что лучше этого не делать. Потому что может оказаться, что сесть на верблюда — стоит 5 долларов, а слезть — 150.

Бедуины

Бедуины также предлагают фотографировать их, а потом долго преследуют с криками «бакшиш», т. е. требуют за это плату. Поэтому лучше делать это незаметно. Но Ане они почему-то позировали с удовольствием, и ей удавалось их фотографировать без всякой платы.

Сфинкс

Сфинкс, охраняющий покой пирамид, задумчиво смотрит на толпы людей, копошащихся перед ним. Говорят, он древнее пирамид. И, по мнению некоторых исследователей, эрозия на его поверхности, — это следы пережитого Великого потопа. Кто знает… Сфинкс и древние пирамиды продолжают хранить свои загадки…

Возвращение

Наш рейс задерживается. В Киеве сильный туман, и пассажиры волнуются, как мы будем лететь и, главное, как сядем. В ожидании рейса в аэропорту идем перекусить в кафе. Разглядывая цены, переговариваемся с Аней между собой. За стойкой напротив собирается группа египтян и прислушивается к нашей речи. Видимо, для их уха она звучит забавно, потому что они говорят: «Бла-бла-бла…»

— Сами вы бла-бла-бла! — отвечаю я им.

Все смеются, и начинают расспрашивать, откуда мы. Как и почти в любом разговоре с египтянами, все заканчивается веселыми шутками.

Наконец объявляют посадку. Говорят, что рейс задержали «в связи с заменой самолета». Взлет. Традиционные аплодисменты.

— Аплодировать надо, не когда самолет взлетает, а когда он садится! — мрачно замечает сидящий рядом мужик. Хм, наверное, он не слышал, что бывает при взлете… На самом деле в авиации главное — легкий взлет, благополучный полет и мягкая посадка. И никак не меньше.

Закат на Красном море

На удивление, обратный полет проходит спокойно. Ни тебе турбулентности, ни второго захода на посадку. Даже неинтересно. Несмотря на туман, самолет уверенно заходит на посадку в Борисполе, шасси касаются земли.

Путь обратно всегда кажется легче и короче, чем путь туда. Не знаю, почему, но этот закон действует, причем безотказно. Проверено неоднократно.

…Снова зима. Температура воздуха ниже нуля, снег и затянутое тучами небо. Я отказываюсь в это верить. Как же так, ведь только что было лето! Куда оно исчезло?!

Но зима уже не кажется мне такой холодной и безнадежной. Потому что я знаю: совсем недалеко, в трех часах полета, — теплое Красное море и Египет, страна вечного лета.

50.jpg

P.S.
… Из любого путешествия возвращаешься немного другим. Может, потому, что увидел мир, совсем непохожий на твой, и людей, которые чем-то тебя удивили. И когда из одной реальности возвращаешься в другую, что-то неуловимо меняется в тебе. Раздвигаются горизонты сознания, и ты уже смотришь на мир иначе. Ты изменился, и мир изменился вместе с тобой.

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29 января–5 февраля 2008 г.

<<Египет, часть 6

Автор: Светлана Тригуб
Фото: Аня, С. Тригуб

130 Responses to 'Египет: лето в феврале. Часть 7'

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  1. Анатолий said,

    on December 29th, 2008 at 3:01 am

    При полете в феврале дважды чувствуешь себя, мягко говоря неловко. 1.Там выходишь с самолета – лето, жара,а ты в зимней куртке. 2.Прилетаешь обратно – зима, а ты в “шлепках” и шортах(забыл, что у нас холодно).

  2. admin said,

    on December 29th, 2008 at 9:35 am

    Да, неудобства имеются. Но по-моему, возможность увидеть лето зимой все это компенсирует! Когда из лета попадаешь в лето — нет такого контраста впечатлений…

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