Египет: лето в феврале. Часть 4

Posted on February 19th, 2008 in Египет by admin

По пустыне на квадроциклах

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На «базе квадроциклов» — огромное множество машин, ни проехать, ни развернуться. Гиды всем повязывают платки-«арафатки», чтобы полностью закрыть лицо, кроме глаз. Это очень популярный головной убор у местного населения, защищающий от пыли и солнца. Выглядит он очень экзотично, потому туристы носят его с удовольствием.

Темные очки на глазах, на голове «арафатка» — турист к сафари на «железном верблюде» готов! Аня села за руль, я сзади нее. Колонна квадроциклов начала движение.

Я думала, что нас просто вывезут в пустыню, посадят на квадроциклы, мы с шумом и пылью сделаем пару кругов и все! Кто-то мне рассказывал о подобном мероприятии — мол, ветер в лицо, пыль в глаза, полный рот песка и немного острых ощущений.

Но все оказалось несколько иначе. Сначала мы выехали на шоссе. Самое обычное шоссе, где ездят машины, автобусы, грузовики. Учитывая, что квадроциклы периодически глохли и врезались друг в друга, а их управляемость оставляла желать лучшего, это выглядело не очень безопасно. Правда, гиды ехали спереди и сбоку, стараясь обеспечивать безопасность движения, и периодически перекрывали трассу, останавливая проходящий транспорт, чтобы мы могли проехать!

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Надо заметить, что в Египте никто не придерживается правил дорожного движения. Да, при сдаче на права там изучают правила, как и везде. Но при получении прав сразу же о них забывают! И ездят так, как им удобно.

Кроме того, египетские «гаишники» встречаются редко. Так что на дорогах водители ведут себя, как хотят. И если даже гаишник оштрафует водителя, например, за превышение скорости, то во второй раз за это нарушение не оштрафуют – водитель покажет справку, что он за это уже заплатил! Водительские права не отбирают, разве что в крайних случаях, когда травмированы люди, и то только на время суда.

Поэтому, когда наши гиды перекрывали трассу, никто даже не протестовал. Все стояли и ждали, пока проезжала наша длинная колонна, как будто так и надо. Один раз автобус засигналил, мол: «Что за дела?» Но гид, подняв на дыбы мотоцикл, лихо подъехал к нему, что-то прокричал на местном диалекте, и водитель автобуса сразу присмирел. Вообще, похоже, для египтян нет никаких проблем — они могут договориться друг с другом о чем угодно. Правил не существует — есть только закон неформальных договоренностей.

Квадроциклы

Наконец с дороги сворачиваем в пустыню. Едем в ущелье между гор. Пыль и песок летят в лицо — вот зачем нужны очки и «арафатки»! Аня, решив «оторваться», делает крутые виражи, и я ору от ужаса! Аня говорит, что я мешаю ей вести машину. Ей легко говорить, а мне кажется, что я сейчас вылечу из этой железной колымаги! Это перспектива вполне реальна, если учесть, что девочки на машине сзади, похоже, совершенно не в состоянии держать дистанцию, и постоянно врезаются в нас! Правда, мы тоже иногда врезаемся в переднюю машину, но гораздо реже.

Колонна квадроциклов в ущелье, пыль столбом, пустыня вокруг, заходящее солнце — и ощущение нереальности происходящего. Настолько это непохоже на привычную жизнь…

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Стоянка в горах. Все покидают железных коней, чтобы сменить их на коней двугорбых — верблюдов. Самые «приятные» ощущения — когда верблюд встает и когда он садится. Он так резко распрямляет и подгибает ноги, что кажется — сейчас упадешь! Лежащие верблюды иногда «рычат» на проходящих слишком близко людей, те в страхе отскакивают. Все знают, что верблюды иногда плюются, но чтобы рычать…

В результате эти корабли пустыни врезаются друг в друга «бортами», заставляя орать сидящих на их спинах людей! Но проводникам до этого, похоже, нет дела.

Верхом на верблюде

Уже совсем темно. Начинается местное танцевальное шоу, не особо впечатляющее, за которым следует, как значится в программе, «настоящий бедуинский чай и ужин». Не совсем понятно, что в ужине «настояще-бедуинского». Плов как плов, ничего особенного. А чай действительно странноватый.

Туристы осторожно спрашивают друг друга — как мы будем ехать обратно? Ведь уже полная темнота, нам долго ехать по пустыне, а фонари в ней не предусмотрены… Спрашиваем гида — он отвечает, что на квадроциклах. Все в легком шоке. На вопрос «И как же мы будем ехать в полной темноте?!» гид ничего не отвечает, только улыбается.

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Снова садимся по машинам, на этот раз — на ту, какая попадется. Нам попался плохо управляемый квадроцикл, с тугим газом и тормозом, который к тому же постоянно глохнет! Но делать нечего, надо как-то ехать.

Вокруг ничего не видно, только огни фар и передних машин, да гиды по бокам освещают дорогу фарами. Внезапно наш квадроцикл глохнет. Слава богу, гиды следят за этим, и быстро подъезжают, помогая решать проблемы. Но пока мы заводили машину, отстали от передних квадроциклов, и теперь не видно их огней, по которым можно ориентироваться!

Чтобы догнать их, Аня давит на газ. Мы разгоняемся и мчимся по пустыне в полной темноте! Квадроцикл подпрыгивает на неровных местах, и я молюсь, чтобы не вылететь! А в небе над нами загадочно сияет созвездие Ориона…

В этой бешеной гонке быстро проскакиваем пустыню и выезжаем на трассу. Представьте это зрелище — ночь, темнота, и по дороге двигается колонна людей на квадроциклах: все в «арафатках» и темных очках! Настоящий отряд исламских террористов…

Вот и база. Мы все-таки доехали! Аня справилась с этим жутким квадроциклом. Я бы так не смогла, честно. Водить всякие транспортные средства — не для меня. «Аня, я тобой горжусь», — говорю я ей.

Платок-арафатка

Предприимчивые египтяне по ходу дела снимали наше сафари на фото и видео, и, пока мы были у бедуинов, успели напечатать фотографии! На стенде выставлены фотографии нашей группы — все поголовно в очках и «арафатках», в самых разных ракурсах, на квадроциклах и верблюдах. Туристы расхватывают фотографии, как горячие пирожки, — похоже, все страшно нравятся себе в «арафатках». Их носят с видимым удовольствием и даже гордостью — еще бы, восточная экзотика!

<<Египет, часть 3      Продолжение. Египет, часть 5>>

Автор: Светлана Тригуб
Фото: Аня, С. Тригуб

114 Responses to 'Египет: лето в феврале. Часть 4'

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    ….в следующий раз обязательно покатаюсь на квадроцикле.

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